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The Benin Story: Welcome to West Africa
by Jerry W. Bird

Being part of the Africa Travel Association brings abundant rewards, but nothing could have prepared me for the pleasant surprise I received on the eve of ATA's 22nd Congress in Cotonou. In fact, the entire fortnight in Benin was a whirlwind affair... one that has becomea permanent bookmark in a lifetime of surprises and serendipity. Our group from North America stepped right off the Air Afrique jet into the heat of the night and what seemed like an exotic Arabian Nights style movie set. Imagine the scene in cinemascope and high fidelity, wraparound sound; an exotic garden party on the spacious patio of the Benin Sheraton in Cotonou (now under new management).

The scene was lit by a big tropical "paper moon, that seemed to hang in the sky for our personal benefit. ATA's opening gala was a riot of colorful costumes - a whirling dervish with high energy dance routines, leaping and spinning to the ever present beat of African drums. How's that for an introduction to Africa?

Jet-Setters Meet : While strolling through the Medina in Marrakech, Morocco in December, 2002, we had the pleasure of a chance meeting with a familiar friend, Marie-Elyse Gbedo, former Tourism Minister of Benin. Later that day we visited with her at the Imperial Borj hotel for an interview session regarding her visions for West Africa in the coming decade. This meeting was timely, since Ms. Gbedo was in the Marrakech for the African Professional Women's Association (details to come Conference. Watch for her comments and a description of the Imperial Borj hotel later in this section.

Benin, West Africa offers many delights
By the late Eunice Rawlings

If you're looking for an unusual, affordable vacation, be sure to put Benin on your "Agenda Africa" for the coming year. Benin is an enchanting West African nation roughly the size of Pennsylvania, yet it is a complete destination with enough variety to fill a two-week vacation. From the drier northern elevations, to the lower lying south, this hospitable country is a safe and a friendly place to explore. After gaining independence from France in 1960 Benin went through some difficult times. Today Benin is a multi-party democracy made up of six provinces. The president, who is the head of the government and chief of state, is elected for a five year term. In 1999, voters went to the polls and elected members of parliament, reinforcing the stable political atmosphere.

Benin is now a model African democracy. Benin can be reached by road or air. Cotonou, the country's most populous city and physical capital, has a good airport, staffed by friendly officials. Entering by road can be a real treat and often takes less time than by air.

The coastal trip from Ghana to Benin takes about 5 to 6 hours, and that includes stops at border crossings, a delicious lunch in Togo, and a visit to Lome's fascinating 'fetish' market. One of the most noticeable features of Cotonou may well be its taxi service. Taxi-motor cycles called zemidjens ply the streets in death defying maneuvers, carrying passengers to their destinations.

The city boasts excellent markets, the most notable being Topka or Dan Topka, where bargaining is the order of the day. There is a colorful craft market and several boutiques where quality goods may be purchased.

Ouidah is must for every visitor to Benin. A former center and trading post of the slave trade, Ouidah presents a thoughtful and thorough look at this turbulent period, through documentation and physical reminders such as the "Road of Slaves." Dagbo Hounan, the chief Superior of the Voodoo cult in Benin will welcome you to his compound and later you may be the guest of King Kakanakou and his court, enjoying a libation and entertainment.

Abomey, formerly one of West Africa's most powerful kingdoms, is equally interesting, with explorations of the Museum of Antiquities and the hall of Reliefs. Arms Events and Amazons: King-Agoli Agbo, the last King of Abomey, a man with great style as well as a sense of humor, will greet you in his kingdom together with his wives and female warriors. In former times, the leaders preferred female warriors (Amazons) as they fought fiercely and were less likely to resort to treachery than their male counterparts. Porto Novo, Benin's nominal capital is not far from the Nigerian border. Dating back to the 16th century, the city has a strong Portuguese atmosphere. The Ethnographic Museum deserves a look, as does the Palace of King Toffa, where you may be treated to a performance of strange, traditional magic by the Zangbeto dancers. The market sells musical instruments, tie-dye cloth, pottery and baskets as well as the usual everyday fare. Try to see it! Ganvie is the jewel in Benin's crown.
Only 30 minutes by road from Cotonou, Ganvie is the 'Venice of West Africa' where 20,000 people dwell in about 3,000 fragile homes, perched on stilts in the middle of Lake Nokoue. The Tofinu fled from the Fon and Dahomey Kingdoms and settled here in the 18th century. Today, they make their living exclusively from fishing. For the adventurous, a couple of funky hotels are available for overnight stays. Benin 's Northern Territory offers delights of its own, including game viewing, which will be covered in a future edition of Africa Travel Magazine. Southern Benin will embrace you with the warmth of its people, delicious foods, uplifting entertainment, a fascinating history and a wealth of life-long memories. For further information contact Agence Africaine de Tourisme, BP 2508, Cotonou Benin. Phone: 229 31 54 14, Fax 229 31 54 99. Represented in North America by Africa Tourism & Trade Bureau, Phone: 818 597 9017, Fax 818 879 9767, E-mail: eunicemr@pacbell.net

 

About the writer. Eunice Rawlings
In her memory

We recommend these other Quality Hotels, all close to or on the beach. They supported us with advertising and we're proud to return the compliment.

Hotel Accor Aledjo
PO Box 2292 Cotonou, Benin
Tel. 229 33 05 62, Fax 229 33 15 74

Hotel Croix du Sud
PO Box 280 Cotonou, Benin
Tel. 229 30 09 54, Fax 229 30 02 18

Hotel del La Plage
PO Box 36 Cotonou, Benin
Tel. 229 32 25 61, Fax 229 31 25 60

For professional services contact:
Top Tours & Safaris
Theo Wilfrid Adebiaye, Owner
03 B,P, 3672, Cononou, Benin
Tel. 229- 311-087, fax 229-31.10.88

Photo Credits: Eunioce Rawlings and Muguette Goufrani

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