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Guinea:
the Switzerland of Africa The
story of my journey from the Gulf of Guinea on
Africa's Atlantic Coast to historic Mali Ville in
the northern highlands, will appear in both English
and French in coming editions of Africa Travel
Magazine. With that in mind, please consider this
online version as an hors d'ouevre - the main
banquet will come when you visit Guinea, prior to
or following December's Cultural and Ecotourism
Symposium. I guarantee that your experience in
Guinea will be like one of Nat King Cole' s most
famous hit songs ... Unforgettable! Or as the
immortal Maurice Chevalier would say ... C'est
Magnifique!
Some
call Guinea the "Switzerland of Africa" and one of
your first pleasant surprises when visiting the
Republic of Guinea is that it's uncrowded. Big in
size, yet small in population. A nation of 7.5
million, Guinea is also described as the land of
contrasts. Those apt comparisons became evident to
me a few days into our journey. The
route selected by our gracious host Hon. Sylla K.
Diakite, Guinea's Minister of Tourism, began close
to Conakry, with a visit to several sites along the
"Slave Route," which I will describe lin my next
installment. The main journey covered a vast
expanse of geography, stretching northeast by
highway via Kindia, Dalaba, Pita and Labé,
to our final destination at Mali Ville near the
Senegal border. For tour photos, see the gallery
pages, where I had many opportunities to capture
the spirit and flavor of the country, its people,
history, culture, cuisine, colorful costumes,
lifestyles and breathtaking scenery. To follow the
route we took,click and view the full
page map
or scroll for the map inset below. If your are
interested in booking a tour covering the same
basic route, see Dunia
Voyages
of Conakry. Precious
Jewels, Grand Ballet and Malinke Music to Charm the
Soul: Several jewels in Guinea's abundant
treasure chest make it a highly attractive tourist
destination; one that's loaded with potential. A
key facet is the rich vibrancy of the culture,
echoing the ATA Congress theme of " Nature, Culture
and Hospitality."
Another
charming jewel in Guinea's tourism crown is the
romantic and captivating Malinke music heard
literally everywhere you go. It's a rhythmic style
that gives inspiration to many West African
artists, even "Les
Ballets Africains,"
Guinea's musical goodwill ambassadors to the
world and
Africa's foremost touring dance company.
What a sight they are on stage! Our applause rocked
the auditorium in Conakry following this group's
spectacular, energy-filled, two hour command
performance for ATA. Before leaving Guinea, I
purchased several albums of West African Malinke
music for our library. It will be beamed to the
waiting world on our new Web Radio Station, being
launched soon. Of
Bridal Veils , Smoking Dogs and Mountain
Maidens Close
to Coyah is Dubreka Ville, which we visited
several days previously. It is the home of "Les
Cascades de la Soumba, " which features a
spectacular waterfall, water sports and a resort
complex with dining room and comfortable cabins.
(photo below) For information tel. (224) 45 32
44. Beyond
Coyah a side road, Route de Fria, leads to one of
the country's better known tourist sites, Mount
Kaloulima, which in French we call "Le Chien
Qui Fume," or the Smoking Dog. Look closely at the
mountainside and you will see the strange
resemblance. At certain times,
like when a
thick fog hugs the mountainside, a wispy smoke
seems to rise from the animal's
mouth.
Our first overnight stop was at the town of
Kindia, (140 km from Conakry) where we
visited the spectacular Bridal Veil Falls or "Le
Voile de la Mariée. " The falls are at their
most appealing during the rainy season, when the
flowing water resembles a delicate bridal
veil. Follow
your Dream: Here
in the heart of West Africa, Guineans offer all the
ingredients of a "Dream Vacation," if you long for
an uncrowded, unspoiled, visitor-friendly country.
In a class by itself is Guinea's unending selection
of spectacular landscapes, which unfolded around
each bend, like a cinemascope movie, as we motored
through the hilly 'Fouta Djalon' region. Many
travelers say that the Fouta Djalon offers the most
striking vistas in all of West Africa. Put this
fact together with the charming,
hospitable people
I met along the way, and you have a winning
combination. Our gracious hosts from the Guinea
Ministry of Tourism, working in close harmony with
the Africa Travel Association and ourselves as its
media arm, hope to make these dream vacations a
reality for travelers from around the
world. by
Muguette Goufrani The
second important leg of my journey inside Guinea
followed a stretch of highway heading north,
between the towns of Kindia and Mamou, which is
known as the "Gateway to the Fouta Djalon." When
night falls, Mamou becomes one of the country's
liveliest towns, and an ideal place for delicious
street food. We sampled a variety of items, from
barbecue to Guinean style couscous. I was impressed
by the festive atmosphere. These proud, assertive
people, walked the streets decked in their bright
flowing robes, as if to say "Guinea is subject to
no sovereign power." While Guineans represent a
combination of the Muslim, Christian and Animist
faiths, they have learned to live together in
harmony - an example for the entire world. For
example, how many are really aware that West Africa
was thriving with well established empires and
trade routes long before the first Europeans
came? Mamou's
Typically Guinean
Marketplace:The
merchants and artisans in their stalls and various
places of business struck me as being confident and
strong minded, yet gentle in nature. These are
ideal qualities for business success anywhere, but
especially in Guinea. In the busy open-air public
market and many roadside stands, women traders
stood behind large trays of merchandise, looking
elegant in their bright robes and always anxious to
please. Even the small children approached us with
trays of delicacies, sweets or fruits balanced on
their heads. The vibrancy of town life, plus
contact with the outside world and external trade,
has stimulated Guinea to reach a higher standard of
civilization than Africa's more isolated people.
Shopping for clothing is a real delight. See the
wide variety of attractive West African robes in
our
photo section. Most
households in the area have a selection of indigo
plants and the locals dye their own clothing, often
with interesting patterns. It is an imposing sight,
dozens of shop women, each with her selection of
palm-oil, soaps, fabrics or yogurt in front of her.
Many of these people work at farms in the
countryside, so there is a vast system of petty
trade. These people have trade in their blood, and
bargaining is a favorite sport- an ideal
opportunity to fine tune their skills. Dalaba,
a Mountain Retreat:
Taking
the main route north, Dalaba was our overnight
stop. A key
tourism site since the Colonial
period,
the Dalaba Mountain Resort was a major therapeutic
center, thanks to its fresh air at 100Om altitude
and gentlly rolling hills.
Set amongst
lush vegetation in the Foutana highlands, it is a
charming town, with an average temperature of 10
degrees c. Guinea's
President and the First lady, holiday here often,
however when they are not visiting, tourists can
stay in the rooms used by his entourages and enjoy
fantasies of grandeur. In the commercial area of
Dalaba, I spent some quality time chatting with,
and learning about local customs from a talented
group of artisans. We visited the co-op shoemaker
shop (see
photo section),
where they make a wide variety of colorful sandals,
plus intricate leather work and other crafts made
from indigenous materials. Le
Jardin Chevalier: At
the park like setting of Jardin Chevalier, we saw
splendid examples of horticulture, with its
selection of trees and shrubs from around the
world. Guineans are excellent gardeners. Lawns are
carefully nourished, irrigated, and terraced to
slope down to the lagoon. Sitting in a lawn chair
that evening, with the sunset reflecting in the
water and shining through a fringe of oil-palms and
slender coconut palms, I could catch the vanishing
glamour of the tropics. My night was a fantasy of
pleasant dreams On
solid ground: During
this journey and my entire three weeks in Guinea, I
got the distinct feeling from many people I spoke
to at length, that the country is in capable hands.
This feeling of confidence, energy and enterprise
was illustrated last spring by the solid support
our magazine received from the nation's business
community. Our website has just added a
Business
Directory Section
that will connect the reader with Guinea's business
leaders, and there's much more to come. Encouraged
by this support, we plan to reprint the current
edition - to keep up with the demand. As the first
travel guide in our new Africa Travel Library
series, it will be a valuable marketing tool to
sell Guinea Trade and Tourism worldwide.
One section
will cover Guinea's "Slave Road" a joint project of
UNESCO and OMT, by
Muguette Goufrani Labé,
Guinea's crossroads community, was the final stop
for that day . Approximately 400 km from our
starting point at Conakry, Labé is Guinea's
third-largest community and for centuries past, a
major crossroads for traffic heading to and
returning from Senegal and Guinée Bissau.
Labé's commercial center or heart of
activity is located on a hillside, affording a
pleasant view of the surrounding countryside. The
area's museum and co-op dyer for fabrics are the
town's principal
attractions.
The
final leg of our journey began early the
following morning we took off for what would
become the high point of the journey, Mali Ville,
which is 120 km from Labé. The colors were
striking, even the road itself, its pink surface
contrasting with a brilliant blue sky. for a few
moments as a photo
opportunity,
we left the beaten track to visit one of the native
hut villages, set amongst the baobab (monkey bread)
and pineapple palm trees. At the market I purchased
some *cassava, avocado, palm kernels and several
jars of honey, which we're still
enjoying. A
Picture of Health and Vitality:
The
drive to Mali Ville was outstanding, as this
attractive town, located at the highest elevation
in the Fouta Djalon plateau, is like a crown jewel
of nature, culture and hospitality. The relatively
cool temperatures year round, and the spectacular,
panoramic views, attract hikers, health
enthusiasts, nature lovers and trekkers from around
the world, most especially from Western Europe. In
my opinion, this area would be the ideal location
for a world class health spa and therapeutic
center. As Lamine Diallo, our guide told me several
times in advance, "You will have the surprise of
your life in Mali Ville. La
Dame du Mali: As
our vehicle wound its way up the incline towards
Guinea's highest mountain, Mount Loura (1538m) we
parked the vehicle and made our way along the
footpath leading to a legendary rock face they call
" La Dame du Mali," which, being perfectly shaped
by nature to resemble an elegant woman's head,
lives up to the name. Seeing 'La Dame' for the
first time as we rounded the final bend in the
path, I could scarcely believe my eyes. What a
beautiful, unforgettable spectacle! The
Thatched Roof Villas at Mali Ville We
were invited to meet the Mayor of Mali Ville in his
residence. That particular morning his honor was
surrounded by a bevy of beautiful young ladies from
the "Promotion Feminine du Mali. He told me a short
story about the town, where the "Peulh" clan is in
the majority. I was particularly impressed by the
ladies' unique hairdos and headdresses. I gathered
more local information from a local teacher, Mr.
Diallo Ibrahima Kindia Mabel, who is also the press
correspondent of the Mali Guinea Agency. The
meeting was so informative, I have saved my notes
from this interview for our next printed
edition. Good-bye
Mali Ville, Hello Conakry Muguette
M. Goufrani If
you are interested in a tour covering the same
route, contact Dunia
Voyages
of Conakry, who have a page on this web site.
•
Cassava
is an important food plant in West Africa, where it
is a staple food. Cassava grows very tall, and its
edible parts are the tuberous root and the leaves.
•
By the way, when you visit Guinea, make sure to
take plenty of film like I did. We have enough
precious memories to last a lifetime. Many of these
images of Guinea will be available to media, travel
clubs and educational groups via the ATA web site.
But please ask permission first. mailto:africatravelasso@aol.com The
opportunities to promote Guinea abound in the
Pacific Northwest where we live. Around the world
there are numerous trade shows and conferences we
and other ATA members attend. We also plan to
organize trade missions and invite investors
interested in becoming partners in building the
infrastructure for an enhanced tourism sector.
If
you want to join us on any future travel to Guinea,
fax (604) 681-6595 mailto:africa@dowco.com Africa
Scene A potential
award winning photograph was taken during our
escorted tour of Guinea's "Slave Route" several
hours drive along the Atlantic Coast from the
capital city of Conakry. The Slave Route bus tour
was courtesy of the Ministry of Tourism and
preceded my longer journey to the north by a few
days. The young Guineans in the above scene are
posing beside the barrel of a huge European cannon,
a rusty relic left over from that dark and
turbulent era in West Africa's history. On the way
to Boké, we made a river crossing by ferry
and later drove beside a stretch of beautiful,
pristine beaches that are said to be among the
finest on the Gulf of Guinea, which fronts on
several neighboring West African countries. On many
weekends expatriate workers from the nearby bauxite
mines travel to the beaches for recreation. To
them, it's like having a private resort that
matches many swank club venues I've seen on this
continent and others. The former slave
fort at Boké village is now an historic
tourist site and museum, which features abandoned
holding cells, underground passages and hideouts
areas along the river's estuary where slaves were
kept from general view.
During our
stay at the village, several of us had an
opportunity to spend time with a family whose
ancestors were slave traders from South Carolina.
Many Guineans from this area were transported to
America to help develop Carolina's rice growing
industry. The lay of the
land: I will provide more details the Slave
Route in the next edition of Africa Travel
Magazine, and elaborate on other facets of our
congress activities and travels in Guinea. We plan
to organize tours from Canada and the USA to Guinea
starting in 2003, and this Slave Route experience
will be high on our agenda. For an overview of this
fascinating country in terms of geography and
scenic attractions, the following information has
been provided by the Ministry of
Tourism.
There are 4
distinct areas designated by relief, climate, flora
and fauna, which are reflected in Guinea's history
and traditions. Low Guinea:
Stretching along the Atlantic Ocean shoreline, and
the mountains of Fouta Djalon, plus lush vegetation
with mangrove swamps and coconut palms. Offshore
Islands: Idyllic scenery with miles of
pristine, silver sand beaches and rivers with broad
estuaries. Central
Guinea: Large mountains and high plateaus, plus
a temperate climate has earned the area the title
"Switzerland of Africa". The highest peaks are
Mount Loura in Mali (1515 m) and Mount Tinka in
Dalaba (1425m). They call it the Water Tower of
Western Africa because many rivers take their
origin (River Gambie, Senegal, Niger, etc.) from
it. These rivers and churning rapids, hurtling down
the mountains create beautiful
waterfalls. High
Guinea: Plateaus with vegetation and wooded
Savannah with a dry climate. The River Niger and
its many tributaries enrich the soil, making the
area is particularly appealing. Forestry of
Guinea. The subequatorial zone is the domain of
dense forests with giant trees and lush groves.
Mount Nimba
(1752m) doesn't attract visitors for its rich
copper ore alone, there is abundant wildlife and
rare flora. That's why it is ranked as a Unesco
World Heritage Tourism Landmark. Loos
Islands. Located near Conakry is an
archipelago, the key islands being Kassa, Room and
Fotoba. There is also Tortoise Island (where giant
tortoises are protected), Snake and Kid Islands.
With easy access by boat, these islands offer
beautiful white sand beaches for relaxation and
nautical sports. The Dog that
Smokes (Bondabom): Only 42 km from Conakry, on
the crest of Mount Kakoulima, is a phenomenal image
on the rock face; an enormous silhouette of a dog's
head. A sculptor's hands could not do better, and
it's even more striking when there's a thick fog,
and a wispy smoke seems to come from the animal's
mouth. Beach at Bel
Air. 225 km from Conakry in the Boffa area, Bel
Air beach provides 7 km of white and silver sand.
Gentle sea breezes and luxuriant vegetation make it
a paradise. Slave Road
. Located along the coast (Conakry, Forecariah,
Dubreka, Boffa and Boke) it's a grim reminder of
the Slave Trade. A joint project of UNESCO and OMT,
access is partly by asphalt road, local trails or
by the river road. Bride Veil.
A marvel of nature, 146 km from Conakry and 13 km
from Kindia on the Mamou road are two waterfalls
that create a veil of exceptional beauty and
whiteness. The name "Bride Veil" attests to its
natural charm. There's a stage for cultural
dancing, 10 bungalows, a restaurant and
bar. Dalaba Mountain
Resort. A key tourism site since the Colonial
period, Dalaba is nestled in the Foutana highlands,
among lush vegetation. It's a charming community,
with freshly scented air and an average temperature
of 10 degrees c. The structure built by Colonial
authorities and businessmen is still
standing. The Lady of
Mali. On Mount Loura at 1500 m, a woman of
remarkable beauty defies the ages. Shaped into the
rock by the wind erosion with all her anatomy
visible, "the lady of Mali" is nature's
masterpiece. Mali town is 588 km from Conakry, and
easy to access. Source of the
Niger: Located 562 km from Conakry at Rubiko in
Faranah is the source of one of Africa's great
rivers. While it's mystery has attracted many
historical expeditions, it is easy to reach by a
mostly asphalt road. Seredou
Post. This area has its own micro-climate, and
a commanding view. Located at 1200 m altitude, 40
km from Macenta by asphalt road. Nimba Road:
A UNESCO World Heritage site, located 1040 km from
Conakry and 17 km from Kola, with access from
N'Zerekore. At 1752 altitude is a forested area
with rare wildlife (buffalo frogs and chimpanzee
families) at Bossou. Carafir:
Site of a hydroelectric dam (75 mw), supplying
electrical energy to the Low and Medium Guinea.
Access is by the National Road #1 and a quality
asphalt road. The dam site is famous for its
wildlife and flora. The lake view is especially
beautiful, and its waters provide an opportunity
for great freshwater fishing. Badiar National
Park. A natural extension of Niokolokoba on the
Senegalese border, the (38.200 ha) park is located
in Koundara Prefecture, and wildlife is abundant in
this area. Alcatraz
Island. A rocky island, Northwest of Boke and
300 km from Conakry, it contains one of the
greatest concentrations of sea birds in West
Africa. High Niger
National Park. The area abounds with game and
is located in Guinea East, covering a 4000 km2 area
in the Prefectures of Faranah, Dabola and
Kouroussa.
Footnotes GUINEA
COUNTRY PROFILE: U.S.
Embassy: B.P. 603, Conakry, Guinea Population: Total:
7,466,200 (July 2000 est.). Economy: Currency:
1 Guinean franc (FG) = 100 centimes Guinea possesses
major mineral, hydropower, and agricultural
resources. The agricultural sector employs 80% of
the work force. Guinea possesses over 25% of the
world's bauxite reserves and is the second largest
bauxite producer. The mining sector accounted for
about 75% of exports in 1998. Industries: bauxite,
gold, diamonds; alumina refining; light
manufacturing and agricultural processing
industries. Exports: bauxite, alumina, gold,
diamonds, coffee, fish, agricultural products. GDP
: agriculture: 24%, industry: 31%, services: 45%.
Electricity - production by source: fossil fuel:
63.55%, hydro: 36.45% Agriculture - products: rice,
coffee, pineapples, palm kernels, cassava
(tapioca), bananas, sweet potatoes; cattle, sheep,
goats; timber Transportation:
Airports - with paved runways: 5
CURRENCY
REGULATIONS: All travelers to Guinea are
prohibited from having more than 5,000 Guinean
francs (about four US dollars) in their possession
when they leave the country. Western Union has an
office off the Avenue of the Republic in downtown
Conakry. Money transfers have worked successfully.
Credit cards are rarely accepted, except at the two
major hotels in Conakry. Credit card cash advances
are not available. Inter-bank fund transfers are
possible at the "BICIGUI", a local bank, but can be
difficult and expensive. TELEPHONES:
Several cellular phone services are available. A
number of public phones operate by locally
purchased phone cards. Telephones are available in
Conakry and in other major towns and hotels.
However, while privatization has improved the
communication system, disruptions in telephone
service are common. Tourism
Marketing: As a team, Guinea's Ministry of
Tourism, Hotels and Handicraft, supported by its
National Tourism Office, the Promotion and
Development Office of Handicrafts, and the
Professionals Federation, is staging a strong,
combined effort. Their project is the development
and promotion of the rich natural and cultural
heritage that visitors to Guinea are invited to
discover. Photos
from Muguette Goufrani's Tour If
you are interested in a tour covering the same
route, contact Dunia Voyages of Conakry, who have a
page on this web site. Footnotes: • The
photo
(left) is of an attractive young lady from Guinea's
Peuhl clan. She is wearing the distinctive hairdo
and head dress.
Migrating from ancient Egypt the Fulani or "Peulh "
are said by some to be of Jewish origin, some
having light complexions, with Caucasian
features. The
Republic of Guinea is located along 300 km of the
Atlantic Ocean in West
Africa.
Thanks
to its abundant natural resource base, there are
business and investment opportunities in all
sectors of the economy Guinea is a
country that has shaped history while conserving
its distinctions. Intersection of civilizations of
the African Middle Ages, the country was the center
of birth, the extension, and the successions of the
grand West African empires. Guinea, always
protective of its liberty, was the last to be
colonized in West Africa and the first to
recuperate its independence.
Did
you know? • Guinea's
major ethnic group the Malinke also reside
in parts of Mali, Cote d'Ivoire and Senegal, and at
an earlier time ruled one West Africa's great
empires. Malinke are also know to have originated
the best kora musicians in West Africa. The kora is
a popular street dance. •
Guinea is
called the Switzerland of Africa, with its
lofty mountains and high plateaus, plus a temperate
climate. The highest peaks are Mount Loura at Mali
Ville (1515 m) and Mount Tinka near Dalaba (1425m).
They also call it the Water Tower of Western Africa
because many rivers take their origin (River
Gambie, Senegal, Niger, etc.) from it. These rivers
and churning rapids, hurtling down the mountains
create beautiful waterfalls. •
Guinea's Tropical Paradise, the Loos
Islands. Our next installment will feature a
trip to Loos Islands, an archipelago located near
Conakry. The key islands are Kassa, Room and
Fotoba. There is also Tortoise Island (where giant
tortoises are protected), Snake and Kid Islands.
With easy access by boat, these islands offer
beautiful white sand beaches for relaxation and
nautical sports. •
Financial development: According to a recent
financial report, the Gulf of Guinea has become one
of the world' s most promising areas for new
petroleum development. This income source in itself
will help expand the infrastructure on which
tourism depends. •
Many Africans call the country 'Guinea Conakry,' to
avoid any possible confusion with Guinea Bissau,
its northern neighbor. •
The language of business and commerce is French and
the currency is the Guinea Franc. If
you are interested in a tour covering the same
route, contact Dunia
Voyages
of Conakry, who have a page on this web
site. Photos
from Muguette Goufrani's Tour |