Biographies . Photos A,, Photos B.
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Discovering
the Great Cities of Morocco We
were on our way to visit Benachir Akli, owner of
Olive Branch Tours, who worked on the last two
events hosted by ATA and the Morocco National
tourism Board.
As
Benachir and others we met will agree, Rail Travel
is still one of Morocco's most practical,
inexpensive and relaxing of all modes on
transportation, and this route to Casablanca was a
shining example of an attractive price plus
convenience. We traveled in a modern, first class
coach, enjoying the privacy of a 6-seat compartment
all to ourselves, with ample overhead storage for
luggage and carry-ons. The one way tickets
purchased at the counter without reservations were
less than $15 in U.S. currency. Getting
Around: It is now close to a month that we have
been visiting Morocco and I am amazed at how easy
it is to get around in a city the size of
Casablanca. We have found the taxi drivers
courteous and knowledgeable, and the prices
affordable. I will comment on this aspect later in
this series because I had the same impression on my
first visit to Casablanca in 2001, when we saw and
photographed many of the city's main attractions in
a very short time. Much more to come regarding our
latest visit to Casablanca. Background
info courtesy of the Moroccan Tourist Office Visitors
to Casablanca will enjoy the seacoast area with its
fine dining spots, the famous Hassan II Mosque, the
bustling central market area, the Habous district,
the Royal Palace, the Mohamed V square, and the
residential area of Anfa. Located near the capital
city of Rabat, Casablanca is also the site of
Hassan II University. Discovering
Fez (Fés) This
phase of my education was prompted by a breakfast
conversation that same day with my friend and
colleague Council Irwin, a Travel Agency owner and
President of ATA's Detroit Chapter. Council has
several of these beautiful carpets in his home. He
aroused my curiosity enough that I made it a point
to seek out and interview Omar, who owns a carpet
store with a seemingly endless inventory (see above
photo) . Myself and others will expand on this
fascinating story about Moroccan carpets and other
facets of our visit to Fès later as we
continue our series on the Great Cities of Morocco.
We will also provide interesting background
information from the Morocco National Tourist
Office such as the following. Facts
about Fès:
Located
in the Fès -Boulemane region (altitude:
415m/1300ft, on the Saiss fertile plains, between
the rich Middle Atlas and Rif forests, Fès
is the very pulse and the cultural, intellectual,
and spiritual capital of Morocco. Inherited from
time immemorial when Fès, then an imperial
city, ruled over most of the Maghreb, a multitude
of vestiges and treasures are only waiting to be
discovered by its visitors, notably behind the
walls of its haunting medieval city, the Medina. A
spiritual Tourist Mecca thanks to its famous
Karaouiyne formerly attended by great scholars from
around the world. Fès is also the guardian
of Arabic-Moorish art. The
Fès medina is famous for its merchants, its
artists and talented craftsmen still carrying on
the trade traditions. Its many quarters are
specialized by guilds, and the crafts industry is
the driving force behind the old city. Among the
special crafts Fez is famous for : fine
woodcarving, brass ware, silks, pottery, leather
goods and bookbinding. Andalusian music, Berber
songs and dances are equally
appreciated. The
Medina hides numerous aristocratic mansions and
magnificent palaces that, from the outside, you
cannot even begin to imagine exist., Wandering
around the maze-like narrow streets of Fez you are
taken back into the past, witnessing its social and
cultural treasures and mingling. How many Arab,
Palestinian, Berber, Andalusian or Saharan
civilizations have left their marks in the area
Visiting this amazing city teeming with life and
history, with past and present subtly interwoven
into its very deep recesses, is both mind-boggling
and fascinating. Exploring
Fez, the visitors can experience a journey that
will throw them, beyond biases and prejudices, into
the living memory of a civilization close to the
one of medieval Europe. Through the violent clashes
of centuries and cultures, they might think they
are going back in time. A stay in Fez, on the other
hand, is not complete without a taste of the Fassi
cuisine, one of the most renowned in Morocco and
the world
Discovering
Meknes Imperial
City and Seventeenth Century Capital. Meknes, one
of the most prestigious of the so-called imperial
cities, enjoys a central position vis-à-vis
other regions in Morocco. Situated west of the
Saiss plain between the pre-Riffian elevation of
Zerhoun and the foothills of the Middle-atlas,
Meknes sits on a plateau and served as a virtual
cross roads for traders and settlers throughout
history; This role was to its clement weather,
abundant water supplies, and surrounding fertile
plains. Bab
Mansour El Alj: One of the best known and admired
of Meknes' grand gates. the Gate leads from the
Imperial City and Lalla Aouda esplanade to El-Hdim
Square. The
Souk of Meknès: A large variety of
colorful handicrafts are displayed. Below: The
artistic displays of fresh produce found at the
Souk in Meknès make these Moroccan Olives
especially enticing. Discovering
Rabat One
of the many pleasant surprises I was to encounter
during our month-long stay in the Kingdom of
Morocco, was the fact that it is easy and
relatively inexpensive to travel from one great
historic city to another. Check the map and see for
yourself. This convenient, low cost, low stress,
ease of transport will certainly please the many
tour operators and travel agents who read our
magazine and website. Other than the direct flight
from JFK New York, the rest of the journey was
entirely overland and the distances were short
enough to allow time for rest stops, meals, impulse
shopping and photo opportunities. The first leg of
our official media tour, hosted by the Morocco
National Tourist Office, was from the imperial city
of Fès to capital city of Rabat, north of
Casablanca. Like
most of Morocco's intercity highways system, the
surface on this stretch was smooth and well
maintained. Before long, signs of Rabat began
appearing, and on the city's outskirts our driver
Mohamed Laframe offered an invitation to stop for
afternoon tea at his family's new apartment. If you
haven't experienced Moroccan mint tea, you are in
for a special treat. The aroma is tantalizing and
the drink is a great picker upper. I always ask for
"sans sucre" ... otherwise I find it a little too
sweet. Gleaming silver tea sets are a popular gift
item in many shops. Our final stop was at the
Sofitel Diwan Hotel Rabat, a 5-star hotel in the
heart of the city, adjacent to most embassies and
government ministry offices. We were greeted by the
Sofitel management, whom we later interviewed on
tape. That
evening we enjoyed a delicious dinner in the
hotel's elegant Brasserie International restaurant,
with a choice of French cuisine and Moroccan
favorites accompanied by a selection of quality
wines from Meknes. I would like to comment on the
caliber of service as provided by our waiter. His
friendly attitude and attention to detail was an
example of the high standards maintained in
virtually every hotel, restaurant or inn we visited
in the entire month period of our stay. The
next morning, well rested and eager to continue our
cultural education and exploration, we began a
visit of this ancient city, stopping first at the
most logical place, the King's Mausoleum, which is
surrounded by a large wall. Near the main entrance,
a pair of color guards on white horses caught our
immediate attention. The "king's men" were dressed
in flame-red tunics and trousers, bright green caps
and highly polished, jet black boots. Two more
guards stood by the steps leading to the mausoleum
and were gracious enough to pose with us. Also
nearby were the traditional Moroccan buskers or
"water sellers" in bright red costumes adorned
(like the song) in "Baubles, Bangles and Beads."
Speaking of baubles and bangles, not once did we
spot any of Moroccans younger generation with
pierced body parts, spiked hair or tattoos. The
only skin adornment appeared on the backs of the
hand, in which ornate designs were applied by
attractive young ladies, several of whom wandered
around the grounds waiting hopefully for tourists
to arrive. On first sight, their artistry resembled
regular needled-applied tattoos, but the good news
is that the fancy looking application is pure
decoration, wearing off and disappearing in a few
days. or two. Traveling
in the Morocco National Tourist Office van, we were
able to see many of the city's most outstanding
tourist attractions quite conveniently with a
series of short visits and photo opportunities. In
the final analysis, I vowed to spend a week or
longer on our next trip and will definitely visit
the government archives and places of
learning. Chafiq
Bahra speaks French, English and Italian, as well
as Morocco's native languages, and is a member of
Morocco's Professional Tour Guide's Association.
Since our meeting, Chafiq has given me a solid
grounding and understanding of the country and its
people, including the basics of Islam. While I've
much more to learn in the months ahead, our readers
will benefit from his fountain of information in
our coming issues. We had the opportunity to visit
the elegant Hotel Mansour Eddahbi (right) where we
were warmly received. Many of the staff remembered
Muguette from her last visit when the Africa Travel
Association brought a large contingent of delegates
here for an Ecotourism Symposium in 1996. Watch for
new items on this web site featuring hotels,
resorts and guest houses in Marrakech as this
series develops. Hotel
Tichka: This morning's weather reports from
Western Europe and North America's east coast were
frightening, but here we are basking in the sun as
we enjoy breakfast on the spacious patio by the
emerald pool (left). We had the pleasure of staying
in this fine member of the Salam Hotel group on the
post ATA Ecotourism Symposium tour provided by the
Morocco National Tourist Office, and liked it so
much we chose to stay a second time on our own. The
architecture and interior design are exceptional,
with high ceilings and large, ornate metal
chandeliers. The interior walls are a gallery of
Moroccan art, and the corner fireplace makes you
want to stay the entire evening. We discovered the
unique history of the hotel, its designers, and
other reasons why our hosts recommended it to the
Africa Travel Association for our media tour. More
to come .... Imperial
Borj: We had the pleasure of a chance meeting
with a familiar friend, Marie-Elyse Gbedo, former
Tourism Minister of Benin and a Presidential
candidate. Later that day we met her at this great
hotel for an interview session regarding her
visions for West Africa in the coming decade. This
meeting was timely, since Ms Gbedo was in the city
for the African Professional Women's Association
(details to come Conference. Watch for her comments
and a description of the Imperial Borj hotel later
in this section. The
Amanjena: When one thinks of luxury living, a
standout in Marrakech is this relatively new
resort. bordered by a lush 18-hole golf course on
the city's outskirts, with the majestic snowcapped
Atlas Mountains forming the background to a picture
of paradise in North Africa. I welcomed the guided
tour of this great resort, from self-contained
suites, to dining area, library, business and
health facilities. I look forward to the day when
we can arrange a function for some of our North
American corporate clients here in Marrakech. More
to come in our description of the Amanjena and the
international chain of upscale hotels and resorts
it represents. La
Mamounia: Muguette Goufrani and I had the
opportunity to visit to La Mamounia twice during
our stay in Marrakech She remembers this hotel as a
meeting place, where herself, friends and family
spent many happy moments during her career. The
hotel's name was derived from its beautiful,
spacious and deliciously perfumed gardens - a
unique wedding gift to the Prince Moulay Mamoun
from his father some 200 years ago (more about the
gardens later). In 1922, architects Prost and
Marchisio designed the hotel, combining the popular
Art Deco look with traditional Moroccan designs.
George
Washington slept here? No but many well known
icons of our times, from Ronald and Nancy Reagan,
to Nelson Mandela, Charles de Gaule, President
Franklin D. Roosevelt and Winston Churchill -
helped make La Mamounia one of the most famous
addresses in North Africa. Churchill referred to it
as,"the most lovely spot in the whole world."
Today, the suite this famous man stayed in 1943
during the Casablanca Conference was renamed in his
honor. One of the world's great hotels, La Mamounia
is located on the walls of the ancient city of
Marrakech with the snowcapped Atlas mountains as a
panoramic backdrop. What a grand movie setting!
Speaking of movies, several well known films used
La Mamounia as a setting, including "Morocco" with
Marlene Dietrich, Hitchcock's "The Man Who Knew Too
Much." Charlton Heston, Omar Sharif, Nicole Kidman,
Sylvester Stallone and Tom Cruise are a few of the
celebrities who've stayed here.Modern as today's
most elegant world class hotels in terms of
facilities, yet furnished and decorated in the art
deco tradition, with an authentic Moorish touch.
There's a golf driving range on site, plus a
swimming pool, tennis and squash courts, beauty and
health spa, fitness center. There are two golf
courses nearby, and you're less than an hour's
drive from downhill skiing in the Atlas Mountains.
How's that for starters. E-mail
Africa
Travel Magazine
with your own travel experiences in Morocco or any
destination in Africa. Discovering
Essaouira Freshness
is the order of the day, every day, here at Chez
Sam and at the long row of outdoor stalls, perched
side-by-side along the dock area. Each stall offers
visitors fresh products from the sea to the table
and each competes vigorously with its neighbor for
our attention, with barkers, menu boards and
tempting displays of fresh catch from the Atlantic.
I enjoyed a generous portion of sole fillet and
fresh salad for less than five dollars U.S. My two
colleagues split a large crab for a similar
tab. Overhead
a flotilla of seagulls was dipping and diving
against a background of crashing whitecaps, rocky
outcrops and rugged remnants of the centuries old
Portuguese fort that marks the city's place in
history. Some call this the "city of winds ... and
when we visited Essaouira earlier this week, a
minor storm was brewing. Gusts swept the beaches
clear of surfers, bathers, wanderers and
beachcombers. A few camel drivers still manned
their stalls near the far end of the crescent
shaped beach, and the waves grew even more fierce
as they pounded the shore. But
today, near the end of December, 2002, it's as
balmy as any spring afternoon, and the buyers and
browsers are out in force, filling the Medina with
its dozens of shops and stalls. We found an
excellent Cyber Cafe right by the entrance and are
getting our dozens of e-mail letters ready to send
around the world. What a great way to stay in touch
- which is why we now carry our own
laptop. Arabian
Nights On New Years Eve: One of my favorite
meeting places in Essaouira is the new 5-star
Hotel Sofitel Mogador, located on the
main promenade facing the famous beach. That's
where we spent one of the most enjoyable New Year's
Eve celebrations in years. It started with our
being invited to a Fashion Show (left) and
continued into the wee hours. For starters, the
hotel's dining room waiters were all decked out in
Aladdin costumes, and the entire ballroom looked
like a scene from Arabian Nights,complete with
belly dancers, a Spanish guitar serenade and
special visual and musical effects. The entire
evening was unforgettable. We then moved to the
hotel's beach side restaurant, where the music was
going full tilt. We displayed some of our own
special items including my regal West African robe
in royal blue trimmed in white. One of the models
wore Muguette's elegant soft green outfit with
contrasting shoulder wrap; both were gifts from
Tourism Minister, Sylla Hadja Koumba Diakite of
Guinea. We expect to receive some photos of the
Moroccan Khaftan fashion segment, which we missed
by a few minutes. Famous
Doors of Hospitality: Another friendly,
convenient place to meet is the Hotel des
Isles, which next to the Medina and offers a
full range of services. We had the opportunity of
meeting the management and will provide more
details later in our recommended hotel and resort
comments, along with word about Essaouira's new
Ryad Mogador and others. I don't know
whether my story on Essaouira will ever be
completed. Since we spent almost two weeks in the
immediate area and met so many interesting people
from all walks of life, there is already enough
material for a series of travel guides. We met
people who are now permanent residents, who came
originally from the USA, Germany, France, Spain,
Italy, the United Kingdom and beyond, all of whom
expressed their love of Morocco in general and
Essaouira in particular. Several of these people
have riads in the Medina area, and others are
located in the surrounding countryside. Great
Drives? The whole of Morocco is ideal for enjoyable
drives. We enjoyed the coastal route from Essaouira
to Agadirand drove the route from Essaouira to
Marrakech twice in a rental car, enjoying every
mile we traveled in this fascinating countryside.
As a firm believers in the magic of serendipity, I
was pleased to meet a very special person who is
now a confirmed "Essaouirian. " One day, we were
searching for computer Internet services and
noticed a sign advertising a local travel agency.
Venturing inside, we enjoyed some quality time with
the owner, George Cook. The timing was perfect,
since Mr. Cook moved his company, fleet of 4-wheel
drive vehicles, computers and all, to the heart of
Essaouira, where he operates Mistral
Travel.
This group tour operation, backed by a travel
professional with decades of experience and key
connections in the British Isles, is a valuable
addition to the resort city. Watch for more
information on Mistral Travel on this site and in
Africa Travel Magazine. Much more to come in this
chapter and series. Discovering
Agadir While
the overland route along Morocco's Atlantic Coast
from Essaouira to Agadir is relatively short in
distance, taking two and a half hours, the scenery
we encountered during the trip by land rover, was
unforgettable. We were in good company, traveling
with Elena Hall, partner in the escorted tour
operation "Blue Men of Morocco" with whom we
participated a week earlier at the ATA Symposium in
Fès. The trip was leisurely, and along the
way we made a one hour detour inland to a rugged,
hilly area that reminded me of Northern Arizona.
The side trip was to a special area where our host,
was looking for "ammonite gauntlet" fossils, since,
according to Elena, this is the only area in
Morocco where such fossils are available. The
seacoast route provided a completely different
vista with miles of pristine, undisturbed beaches,
lighthouses and a variety of unique pastoral
scenes. Upon
arriving in Agadir and discovering the amazing
development taking place all along the beach front
and parts of the downtown area, I wished we had
arranged more time, perhaps a weekend at least.
Much of the development is so new, it looks like
someone just opened a gift package. Looking at the
long, wide, crescent-shaped beach, it's not hard to
see why Agadir, with its warm sands, blue skies and
rolling surf, continues to attract visitors in
droves, including special air charters from Europe.
We noticed a number of vehicles had been driven
here from Europe. The beach area is clean and well
maintained. The day we arrived it was much too cool
for beach activity, but it wasn't hard to visualize
what this Atlantic Coastal resort would be like at
peak season. We stopped for a refreshing drink at a
charming restaurant (above) on the city's main
boulevard, being attracted by the building's
design, its signage and its Moorish-Spanish
décor (details later). Later we enjoyed a
great meal at- one of the many side-by-side
beachfront restaurants (part outdoor- part indoor)
and not only was the selection varied, the price
was reasonable compared to the same menu in the
USA. We drove around most of the downtown area, did
some business and were impressed with Agadir's
modern look, friendliness and wide variety of shops
and services. More to come in this
series. Where
to stay in Agadir? Watch for Africa Travel
Magazine's recommendations and those of our readers
from the travel industry. May
we hear from you?
Letter
from a reader Morocco
is a fascinating if you love sensory experiences or
sensory overload!! The experience started as soon
as we boarded the Royal Air Maroc flight, and
continued for the entire trip. I'll never forget
the sights, smells and sounds of the souk at
Marrakech!!! Shopping was great as well. As I said,
I prefer to get a little more into the country
itself, but it was a great 'spa experience'. The
trip was billed as "Sister Scholars at the Spa"!!!
Actually, Morocco was a great value I would go
again for that reason alone. I started writing an
article several months ago and would be happy to
share my thoughts with you further. Pamela
E-mail
Africa
Travel Magazine
with your own travel experiences in Morocco. For
Further information, Contact: CANADA:
Moroccan National Tourist Office: Suite 1460, 2001
rue Université, Montreal, Quebec, Canada H3A
2A6. Tel: +1 514 842 8111/2. Fax: +1 514 842
5316. E-mail
Africa
Travel Magazine
with your own travel experiences in Morocco. For
Further information, Contact: |
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